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Framing a stud wall
Once you’ve established how you are going to anchor the new wall, you can start framing.
Determining Wall Height:
1. Measure the distance from floor surface to ceiling in several laces along the location of your new wall. It’s not unusual for the distance to vary as much as ½ inch.
2. In order to tip a framed wall into position without damaging a finished ceiling, you’ll have to cut your studs to the height of the shortest floor-to-ceiling measurement, minus the combined thickness of the travels when you raise it. Any gps between the top plate and the ceiling can be shimmed.
Cutting & Marking Plates:
1. Cut two plates –top and bottom- to length of the new wall.
2. Align the top and bottom plates. Hook your measuring tape at one end and mark stud locations 16 inches on center. Carefully lay out doorways, using rough opening sizes provided by the door manufactures.
3. Using a square, mark across both plates at once.
Assembling the Wall:
1. Set the plates on edge, separated by the height of the wall, with the layout marks facing each other.
2. Align each stud with layout marks. Drive two 12d or 16d nails through the plates into the ends of each stud.
Raising the Wall
1. Lift the wall up at an angle and slide the bottom plate into location along the chalk line.
2. Carefully tip the wall into position. If the fit is snug, you may ned to tab the top plate with a hammer. To avoid scraping a finished ceiling, you can position the top plate first. Thantap the bottom into place.
3. Fill any loose spaces between the top plate and the ceiling with wooden shims.
4. Use a 4-foot level to check that the frame is plumb. Check several studs on both the inside and outside faces. Make any necessary adjustments than nail the bottom plate to the floor with 16d nails.
5. Nail the top plate firmly to the ceiling, using 16d nails.
Source: HOW TO BOOKLET # 52 from Creative Homeowner®
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Working with Primer:
When applying a primer, cover everything that you intend to paint. With fascia and other trim pieces, it's a good idea to 'back prime' which means covering all the surfaces, including the sawn edges that don't show. Back priming will help restrict moisture movement and will extend the life of these decorative elements. Try priming the wood before installation. Although it seems like an extra step, priming first will save you time and money later on.
Source: Gazebos & other outdoor structures page # 80 from Creative Homeowner®.
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Starting a Lawn
Preparing the Soil:
For any method of starting a lawn, proper soil preparation is critical to growing a lawn that is beautiful and easy to maintain.
·Grade the surface. If the lawn area has lots of holes and hills, hire a professional to smooth out the soil surface. You can do this job yourself with a spade, hoe, and wheelbarrow, but plan on spending lots time and effort. Even if you do the spadework, a final grading by a pro is a good investment. However it's done, make sure water will flow away from your house, or if that's not possible, install a good drainage system.
· Remove loose debris (stones larger than golf balls and sticks), then using a spade or rot tiller, till the soil about 4 to 5 inches deep to loosen it. Spread an inch or two of organic material such as leaves, lawn clippings, compost, or peat moss, on your soil. If you did a soil test, add the ingredients, your soil needs. Now till the soil again, level new high or low spots with a rake, and remove any churned up debris and weeds. Then measure to make sure your soil loose enough.
· Let the soil settle for a week or so. If it doesn't rain in this period, sprinkle soil with water to help settle it. But go easy you don't want to turn the soil into hardpan.
· After the soil has settled, fertilize the entire area with a quality new grass fertilizer. New grass fertilizer has a high phosphorus content, which helps establish a strong root system. For best result use mechanical drop spreader for dry fertilizer. Liquid fertilizers are also available, but are less common. For spreading, consult the directions on the package or your local lawn care professional.
Source: HOW TO BOOKLET # 91 from Creative Homeowner®.
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