How-to-do
With a beautiful stone pavement you can transform each garden in to a wonderful terraced garden! But it is important that it is paved well! With a bad drainage or subsidence, or when you realize that the seating area is too small, the fun of having one soon disappears. That’s why a good preparation is important. A thorough pavement plan makes a big difference!
Step 1: The Pavement plan
To start, draw a plan (pattern) of the garden to scale. Indicate the location of the outside tap, the gully as well as the doors, garden fences and exit.
Outline how the pavement should look. Take into account the following dimensions: to place a table with 4 to 6 chairs your terrace should be 3 x 3 meters big. The width of a small path should at least be 70 cm wide and your driveway at least a minimum of 3 meters wide. But the spacious, the better!
Step 2: When purchasing your material
First choose your tiles and ensure that you have the sizes and dimensions of the pavement noted on a piece of paper. To determine the required quantity, you need to measure the number of square meters needed for the space you like to pave.
In order to come up with the total number of square meters, you need to calculate the surface area by multiplying the length and width. This is because tiles are sold per square meter. Add an extra 10% to this number because you will always have cutting or breakage waste.
In addition, you also need to measure the required cubic meters of backing sand. To lay down the sand you should count on a depth of approximately 20 cm (0.2 meter). Multiple this number by the surface area (which you just calculated previously). You now have the total number of required cubic meters. Backing sand is not expensive and thus is it advisable to buy some extra. Nothing is more annoying than to be busy and the sand quantity is used up.
Step 3: Plotting and leveling off the pavement
You will now plot the pavement using wooden posts and a string line. Knock the wooden posts on both sides into the ground at approximately 10 cm next to the desired terrace area.
Next you need to dig a maximum of 20 cm in depth where you intend to have the pavement. Make sure not to dig out too much in order not to loosen the soil too much. Check once in a while with a long slat and a spirit level whether you are not digging too deep.
Step 4: To pour in the course concrete sand
You can now pour in the course concrete sand into the section that you have dug out with backing sand. For this you can use a wheel barrow. Whilst pouring in the sand firmly compact the ground. It is best to use a vibrating plate in order for the ground to be compacted. However, if you do not have such a machine, you can also use a garden hose to sprinkle the sandy soil. By doing so, the ground becomes compact and much stronger! Leave the ground after the pouring and sprinkling to settle for a day! The ground can then be ‘stabilized’ and will not subside anymore.
Step 5: Smoothen the foundation
At first, smoothen out the lower layer before starting to lay down the tiles. You can do this by using a long straightened screed and pulling it over the course concrete sand in straightened and zig-zag movements.
But when it rains you would want the water to run off rapidly from the terrace or the path! That’s why you must make sure a terrace slopes down towards a gully. Along the path you need to round it off (higher in the middle and lower on the sides). The slope should be approximately 1 to 1.5 cm per (linear) meter.
Step 6: Laying down the tiles
You can start constructing your pavement when the foundation is smoothened out and it is well sloped off. Start with the outer edge and ensure it is clearly straight by using a spirit level. Thereafter the rest of the tiles can be laid down one row after another. Make sure tiles are tightly leveled side-to-side. At first, lay down the un-cut tiles. After that, you can fill up the spaces with cut tiles.
Tip: Would you like a circular terrace in the garden? Then take a pvc pipe and a large nail. Tie in between these a rope as long as the diameter of your circular terrace. Place the pvc pipe in the middle of the circle and draw with a nail the outer edges of your desired circular terrace.
Along this line you can place the first row of tiles followed by the next layers until reaching the middle. The more you approach the middle the larger the cracks between the tiles. Therefore, use smaller tiles for the ‘heart’, or fill in the last part by placing the tiles rectangular.
Step 7: The outer edge
The chance that all tiles fit perfectly in the designated area is very small. Most likely, the tiles at the outer edge will have to be made smaller. Use a stone chisel, or to obtain perfectly tight joints, a guillotine or a hook setter. Cut off a sufficient amount because it is important that the stone fits in perfectly. If the tile is too big in size, it can disrupt the desired pattern.
Step 8: To finish off
To avoid that the stones will ‘move’ after a period of time, it is best to cordon off the paved area. This can be done by placing special concrete edges (‘Klikkertjes’ – tiles that are placed 2 cm deeper than the rest) along the edges of the terrace.
You finish the terrace by spreading fine sand. Remove excess sand from surface by using a soft broom.
Step 9: Fill up the edges and compact the sand
For firmness you must finally fill up the edge of the paved area with black earth and compact this firmly. To do this perfectly, you should compact the street with a vibrating plate. Scatter another layer of white sand over the tiles after using the vibrating plate and remove excess sand by using a soft broom.
It is now time to enjoy your new terrace!!
Step 1: The Pavement plan
To start, draw a plan (pattern) of the garden to scale. Indicate the location of the outside tap, the gully as well as the doors, garden fences and exit.
Outline how the pavement should look. Take into account the following dimensions: to place a table with 4 to 6 chairs your terrace should be 3 x 3 meters big. The width of a small path should at least be 70 cm wide and your driveway at least a minimum of 3 meters wide. But the spacious, the better!
Step 2: When purchasing your material
First choose your tiles and ensure that you have the sizes and dimensions of the pavement noted on a piece of paper. To determine the required quantity, you need to measure the number of square meters needed for the space you like to pave.
In order to come up with the total number of square meters, you need to calculate the surface area by multiplying the length and width. This is because tiles are sold per square meter. Add an extra 10% to this number because you will always have cutting or breakage waste.
In addition, you also need to measure the required cubic meters of backing sand. To lay down the sand you should count on a depth of approximately 20 cm (0.2 meter). Multiple this number by the surface area (which you just calculated previously). You now have the total number of required cubic meters. Backing sand is not expensive and thus is it advisable to buy some extra. Nothing is more annoying than to be busy and the sand quantity is used up.
Step 3: Plotting and leveling off the pavement
You will now plot the pavement using wooden posts and a string line. Knock the wooden posts on both sides into the ground at approximately 10 cm next to the desired terrace area.
Next you need to dig a maximum of 20 cm in depth where you intend to have the pavement. Make sure not to dig out too much in order not to loosen the soil too much. Check once in a while with a long slat and a spirit level whether you are not digging too deep.
Step 4: To pour in the course concrete sand
You can now pour in the course concrete sand into the section that you have dug out with backing sand. For this you can use a wheel barrow. Whilst pouring in the sand firmly compact the ground. It is best to use a vibrating plate in order for the ground to be compacted. However, if you do not have such a machine, you can also use a garden hose to sprinkle the sandy soil. By doing so, the ground becomes compact and much stronger! Leave the ground after the pouring and sprinkling to settle for a day! The ground can then be ‘stabilized’ and will not subside anymore.
Step 5: Smoothen the foundation
At first, smoothen out the lower layer before starting to lay down the tiles. You can do this by using a long straightened screed and pulling it over the course concrete sand in straightened and zig-zag movements.
But when it rains you would want the water to run off rapidly from the terrace or the path! That’s why you must make sure a terrace slopes down towards a gully. Along the path you need to round it off (higher in the middle and lower on the sides). The slope should be approximately 1 to 1.5 cm per (linear) meter.
Step 6: Laying down the tiles
You can start constructing your pavement when the foundation is smoothened out and it is well sloped off. Start with the outer edge and ensure it is clearly straight by using a spirit level. Thereafter the rest of the tiles can be laid down one row after another. Make sure tiles are tightly leveled side-to-side. At first, lay down the un-cut tiles. After that, you can fill up the spaces with cut tiles.
Tip: Would you like a circular terrace in the garden? Then take a pvc pipe and a large nail. Tie in between these a rope as long as the diameter of your circular terrace. Place the pvc pipe in the middle of the circle and draw with a nail the outer edges of your desired circular terrace.
Along this line you can place the first row of tiles followed by the next layers until reaching the middle. The more you approach the middle the larger the cracks between the tiles. Therefore, use smaller tiles for the ‘heart’, or fill in the last part by placing the tiles rectangular.
Step 7: The outer edge
The chance that all tiles fit perfectly in the designated area is very small. Most likely, the tiles at the outer edge will have to be made smaller. Use a stone chisel, or to obtain perfectly tight joints, a guillotine or a hook setter. Cut off a sufficient amount because it is important that the stone fits in perfectly. If the tile is too big in size, it can disrupt the desired pattern.
Step 8: To finish off
To avoid that the stones will ‘move’ after a period of time, it is best to cordon off the paved area. This can be done by placing special concrete edges (‘Klikkertjes’ – tiles that are placed 2 cm deeper than the rest) along the edges of the terrace.
You finish the terrace by spreading fine sand. Remove excess sand from surface by using a soft broom.
Step 9: Fill up the edges and compact the sand
For firmness you must finally fill up the edge of the paved area with black earth and compact this firmly. To do this perfectly, you should compact the street with a vibrating plate. Scatter another layer of white sand over the tiles after using the vibrating plate and remove excess sand by using a soft broom.
It is now time to enjoy your new terrace!!